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| Yelapa, Mexico, located along the Pacific
coast just south of Puerto Vallarta, is a tranquil
fishing village of roughly 1,200 people, mostly Mexicans
but also a sizeable number of expatriate retirees,
primarily from the U.S. and Canada. These folks
comprise nearly 1/3 of the total population during the
high season, and about 100 or so gringo retirees live
here year round. Yelapa is accessible only by
boat, and there are a number of daily water taxis that
carry tourists and residents alike to and from the
village and Puerto Vallarta each day (cost is roughly
$12 one way, and there is an office at the end of the
Los Muertos Pier to assist visitors). |
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This is truly life in the slow lane, far, far away from
modern day problems, and, yes, conveniences. Phone
service is now fairly standard (and there is even a business
where you can receive faxes), but for years it consisted of
one to two public phones for the entire village.
Electricity is limited and spotty (bring a
flashlight). The roads are dirt, and there are no
cars; everything is accessible by foot or burro. Chickens
and pigs share the streets with humans. Homes are lit
by candlelight and kerosene lamps. The tourists who
come to visit usually stay for lunch, take a stroll on the
beach and then return to Puerto Vallarta before
dinner. There are no large hotels. The
expatriates who live here throughout the year tend to be
free-spirits, mainly writers, painters, musicians and those
dropping out and enjoying a simpler life. It is easy
to see the appeal. The people are friendly; the
scenery is beautiful and days melt into a one another under
the blue skies, hazy clouds and warm temperatures. |
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Yelapa is located at the foot of the Sierra Madre
Mountains and sits between the ocean and the jungle. The
main beach has a number of open-air, thatched roof restaurants (Sarandeado
- barbecued fish on a stick - is a local specialty) and is a fine
place to spend an afternoon sipping a tropical drink while
watching the boats and tourists come and go. Only one
restaurant, Marlins, accepts Visa or Mastercard; most transactions
in Yelapa are via cash, and dollars are always accepted, but local
merchants may not have change for larger (i.e., $20)
bills. After dark, beach bonfires bring
residents out to enjoy the stars and live music. The
village itself is a short walk from the beach and has a number of
businesses, including a post office (mail is delivered and picked
up once a week on Tuesday), a couple of internet cafes (The Vortex
Cafe and Mimi's Restaurant), a bakery, a pool hall, a fresh water
store, three small markets, a dance hall, some candy stores,
various restaurants, the local Catholic church, which holds daily
masses, and a fish market. There is also a youth center that
was founded by an American. By U.S. standards, all of these
businesses and facilities are very rustic, often with just a few
items for sale; there is not a lot of money in Yelapa, but that is
much of its appeal.
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