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9/3/2011

 

Short Profiles of Reader Requested Towns

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Taos, New Mexico

     
 
A deep sense of history, a creative sensibility and an unmistakable mysticism dwell in artsy, funky Taos (population 5,300), a town in north central New Mexico.   Pueblo Indians lived here 900 years ago, and the Spanish came in 1540.  White settlers arrived in the 1880s, but it was in 1898 that Taos' future was sewn, when two artists traveling across the country stopped to have a wagon wheel replaced.  They fell in love with the little village and decided to stay, the first in a long line of artists and writers, including Ansel Adams, Georgia O'Keeffe, D.H. Lawrence and Thornton Wilder, to make their way here (as did another famous character, frontiersman Kit Carson, who is buried in the local cemetery).   A hippie hang out in the 1960s and 1970s, Taos today remains a very liberal, "live and let live" kind of place.  The cost of living is 5% above the national average, and the median home price is $250,000.  Forty-two percent of residents are age 45 or better.

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A unique cultural mix, in which Anglos, Indians and Hispanics co-exist, is a Taos hallmark.  This diversity, combined with the amazing artist community, is what makes Taos unique.  More than 100 galleries and studios are here, clustered in various shopping venues, and silversmiths, weavers, filmmakers, potters, painters, drum makers and many more create works of art year round.  At nearly every turn, an artist has left his mark, from the Depression-era murals in the Old County Courthouse to the carved crosses on the very active Our Lady of Guadalupe Church.  Original art is on the walls in banks, restaurants and hotels.  In fact, it is said that Taos has more artists per capita than Paris.
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Rustic but modern, Taos, whose name means "place of red willows" in the Tiwa language, is characterized by territorial style and pueblo style homes that are made of adobe, a combination of sand, water, clay and straw.  Colorfully painted doors and wooden gates, low surrounding adobe walls and outdoor wooden ladders to the roof are common features.  Residences outside of town range from "earthship" designs to sprawling, modern ranch houses (some of which belong to celebrities).

Historic Taos Plaza, 300 years old, is in the heart of town, with galleries, cafes, shops and one hotel, but it is very touristy and usually crowded (shops tend to be over-priced).   Eight museums are dedicated to preserving both contemporary and Indian artist traditions.  Performing arts are in good supply, too.  The Taos Center for the Arts, the Taos School of Music and the Taos Chamber Music Group all present concerts.  There are also workshops, lectures, festivals and retreats to attend.  Churches, particularly Catholic, are easy to find.  Fifty restaurants create a sophisticated cuisine scene and dish up everything from organic buffalo burgers to sushi and spicy chile rellenos (and three restaurants are winners of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence).  Many shops are boutique-style, but there is a Wal-Mart, a Sears, a J.C. Penny's, etc.  Chile ristras are always for sale along the roadsides, and the festive Taos Farmers' Market, Saturdays from mid-May to the end of October, is the place for grassfed meats, cheeses and veggies.

 

Usually bathed in sunshine, Taos sits among piņon pine trees and scrub oak at an elevation of 6,952 feet and is surrounded by wide open Bureau of Land Management (BLM) property and national forest.  It is this striking landscape, and the light that dances upon it creating magical colors and whispery shadows, that brings many people to this region.   Taos Mountain (Wheeler Peak) towers in the distance, and gorges and meadows, not to mention kayaking, hiking, bicycling, mushroom picking and fishing, are never far away (in winter, people come to Taos to ski at one of four down hill ski areas).  It is easy (some people might say too easy) to be completely alone, except for some snakes, lizards and the sprawling New Mexico sky, by venturing just a few miles outside of town.

 

Local transportation is provided by the Chile Line, and the cost to ride is $.50.   It also has a curb to curb paratransit service (Handi Van).  Taos Express offers rides to the Santa Fe airport, which is 105 miles south and serviced by American Airlines, for $10.  

The non-profit organization Anacianos provides programs for Taos residents age 60 and better.  Services include transportation to shopping, banks and medical appointments, as well as congregate noon meals, exercise classes, trips, legal assistance and the annual Senior Olympics.  Taos Public Library is open six days a week and has an interlibrary loan program, various lecture series, a collection of large-print books, computers with Internet access, and of course, an art collection.  The University of New Mexico also has a satellite campus here.

Holly Cross Hospital has 49 beds, but it is not accredited by the Joint Commission, and, unfortunately, ranks below national averages in a number of patient safety categories.  It is also dealing with a $6.6 million shortfall, and only 62% of patients would refer it to a friend, below the national average.  Both Medicare and Medicaid patients are accepted.

The high desert climate brings summer temperatures in the 70s, 80s and low 90s, with very, very little humidity.   Winters can get cold, with temperatures in the teens, 20s, 30s and 40s, and it can snow 2 to 4 inches per month from November to April.  The sun shines nearly 300 days of the year.  On the comfort index, a combination of humidity and temperatures, Taos comes in well above the national average.

 

Taos certainly has a lot going for it, but it also has drawbacks as a place to retire.  It is remote, with two lane U.S. Route 64 the only highway in and out, and it can feel isolated.  Tourists come in droves during the summer, and many retailers cater to them (because they depend on them).  Much of the town is charming, but there are also areas that have a haphazard feeling to them.   Some say it is an insular, clique-ish place and fitting in can be difficult for newcomers.  Jobs are few. Class lines are evident, and there is some resentment about how real estate prices have been driven up by more affluent newcomers.  Crime is above the national average, as is the poverty rate (substantially so).   New Mexico is a poor state, and manifestations of this can be seen even in Taos.

 

Taos has charm, history, a rich cultural scene, a liberal vibe, great restaurants, dry air, outdoor recreation and wonderful architecture, but the sub-par hospital, tourist crowds, high crime rate, high poverty rate and remote, hard to reach location seem to outweigh the pluses.



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