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| A deep sense of
history, a creative sensibility and an unmistakable mysticism
dwell in artsy, funky Taos (population 5,300), a town in north
central New Mexico. Pueblo Indians lived here 900
years ago, and the Spanish came in 1540. White settlers
arrived in the 1880s, but it was in 1898 that Taos' future was
sewn, when two artists traveling across the country stopped to
have a wagon wheel replaced. They fell in love with the
little village and decided to stay, the first in a long line of
artists and writers, including Ansel Adams, Georgia O'Keeffe,
D.H. Lawrence and Thornton Wilder, to make their way here (as
did another famous character, frontiersman Kit Carson, who is
buried in the local cemetery). A hippie hang out in
the 1960s and 1970s, Taos today remains a very liberal,
"live and let live" kind of place. The cost of
living is 5% above the national average, and the median home
price is $250,000. Forty-two percent of residents are age
45 or better.
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| A unique cultural mix, in
which Anglos, Indians and Hispanics co-exist, is a Taos
hallmark. This diversity, combined with the amazing
artist community, is what makes Taos unique. More
than 100 galleries and studios are here, clustered in
various shopping venues, and silversmiths, weavers,
filmmakers, potters, painters, drum makers and many more
create works of art year round. At nearly every
turn, an artist has left his mark, from the Depression-era
murals in the Old County Courthouse to the carved crosses
on the very active Our Lady of Guadalupe Church.
Original art is on the walls in banks, restaurants and
hotels. In fact, it is said that Taos has more
artists per capita than Paris. |
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Rustic but modern, Taos, whose name means
"place of red willows" in the Tiwa language, is
characterized by territorial style and pueblo style homes that
are made of adobe, a combination of sand, water, clay and
straw. Colorfully painted doors and wooden gates, low
surrounding adobe walls and outdoor wooden ladders to the roof
are common features. Residences outside of town range from
"earthship" designs to sprawling, modern ranch houses
(some of which belong to celebrities).
Historic Taos Plaza, 300 years old, is in the
heart of town, with galleries, cafes, shops and one hotel, but
it is very touristy and usually crowded (shops tend to be
over-priced). Eight museums are
dedicated to preserving both contemporary and Indian artist
traditions. Performing arts are in good supply, too.
The Taos Center for the Arts, the Taos School of Music and the
Taos Chamber Music Group all present concerts. There are
also workshops, lectures, festivals and retreats to
attend. Churches, particularly Catholic, are easy to
find. Fifty restaurants create a sophisticated cuisine
scene and dish up everything from organic buffalo burgers to
sushi and spicy chile rellenos (and three restaurants are
winners of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence). Many
shops are boutique-style, but there is a Wal-Mart, a Sears, a
J.C. Penny's, etc. Chile ristras are always for sale along
the roadsides, and the festive Taos Farmers' Market, Saturdays
from mid-May to the end of October, is the place for grassfed
meats, cheeses and veggies.
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| Usually bathed in sunshine,
Taos sits among piņon pine trees and
scrub oak at an elevation of 6,952 feet and is
surrounded by wide open Bureau of Land Management (BLM)
property and national forest. It is this striking
landscape, and the light that dances upon it creating
magical colors and whispery shadows, that brings many
people to this region. Taos Mountain
(Wheeler Peak) towers in the distance, and gorges and
meadows, not to mention kayaking, hiking, bicycling,
mushroom picking and fishing, are never far away (in
winter, people come to Taos to ski at one of four down
hill ski areas). It is easy (some people might say
too easy) to be completely alone, except for some
snakes, lizards and the sprawling New Mexico sky, by
venturing just a few miles outside of town.
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Local transportation is provided by the Chile
Line, and the cost to ride is $.50. It also has a
curb to curb paratransit service (Handi Van). Taos Express
offers rides to the Santa Fe airport, which is 105 miles south
and serviced by American Airlines, for $10.
The non-profit organization Anacianos provides
programs for Taos residents age 60 and better. Services
include transportation to shopping, banks and medical
appointments, as well as congregate noon meals, exercise
classes, trips, legal assistance and the annual Senior Olympics.
Taos Public Library is open six days a week and
has an interlibrary loan program, various lecture series, a
collection of large-print books, computers with Internet access,
and of course, an art collection. The University of New
Mexico also has a satellite campus here.
Holly Cross Hospital has 49 beds, but it is not
accredited by the Joint Commission, and, unfortunately, ranks
below national averages in a number of patient safety
categories. It is also dealing with a $6.6 million
shortfall, and only 62% of patients would refer it to a friend,
below the national average. Both Medicare and Medicaid
patients are accepted.
The high desert climate brings summer
temperatures in the 70s, 80s and low 90s, with very, very little
humidity. Winters can get cold, with temperatures in
the teens, 20s, 30s and 40s, and it can snow 2 to 4 inches per
month from November to April. The sun shines nearly 300
days of the year. On the comfort index, a combination of
humidity and temperatures, Taos comes in well above the national
average.
Taos certainly has a lot going
for it, but it also has drawbacks as a place to retire. It
is remote, with two lane U.S. Route 64 the only highway in and
out, and it can feel isolated. Tourists come in droves
during the summer, and many retailers cater to them (because
they depend on them). Much of the town is charming, but
there are also areas that have a haphazard feeling to
them. Some say it is an insular, clique-ish place
and fitting in can be difficult for newcomers. Jobs are
few. Class lines are evident, and there is some resentment about
how real estate prices have been driven up by more affluent
newcomers. Crime is above the national average, as is the
poverty rate (substantially so). New Mexico is a
poor state, and manifestations of this can be seen even in Taos.
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Taos has charm, history, a rich cultural scene, a liberal
vibe, great restaurants, dry air, outdoor recreation and wonderful
architecture, but the sub-par hospital, tourist crowds, high crime rate, high
poverty rate and remote, hard to reach location seem to outweigh the pluses.
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