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A Nearly Forgotten Land Dotted
with Ancient Hilltop Villages, Brooding Castles and Stone Houses,
Italy's Lunigiana Beckons to Retirees in Search of a European Retirement in
an Unspoiled Locale
Cost of Living: Above the U.S. National Average
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Situated between the Apennine Mountains and the marble peaks of the Apuan Alps on the very northern tip of Italy's Tuscany Region, the Lunigiana
(Lun-e-shian-a) Territory is nestled in a spectacular valley that is crisscrossed by three rivers. It is an unspoiled land dotted with ancient hilltop villages, brooding stone
castles and mysterious, 2,000 year old statue-menhirs (megalithic standing stone carvings with a human or human-like figure). Rich in
history and wrapped in mythology (legend has it that long-ago residents worshipped the moon), it is indeed a a place that in many ways seems caught in a Medieval timewarp. It attracts little tourism
or foreign investment, but a more beautiful region is hard to find. The territory takes its name from the ancient Roman town of Luni (the ruins of which are still
visible), and remnants of both Roman and Medieval settlements are found throughout the area. For centuries competing feudal dynasties fought over Lunigiana as it was
a prime passageway from Tuscany to more northern provinces.
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Today, Lunigiana is peaceful, pristine, compact, romantic, and even though it is part of popular Tuscany,
it is well off the beaten tourist path. Italy is one of Europe's more expensive countries, but the old, picturesque towns within Lunigiana have some
surprisingly affordable real estate, offering a European retirement in a magnificent historic setting for less than might be expected.
Across Lunigiana, marble villages peek out from the wooded hillsides, and chestnut trees, beech trees, green meadows, terraced olive groves and vineyards mingle to
create a storybook scene. And while early churches and stone farmhouses are at every turn, castles are probably Lunigiana's greatest claim to fame. During the
Middle Ages, from roughly the 5th century to the 15th century, more than 160 castles were built here, and depending on whom is doing the counting, from 30 to 100 are
still standing, creating an often dramatic landscape. During autumn, when the fog rolls in and filters the light, tableaus of ruined castles
set against an imposing sky
transport even the most modern human back to an ancient era.
Expatriate retirees have the option
of buying real estate or leasing it (one does
not need to be an Italian resident to buy or
lease), and Lunigiana has a dozen or so villages
in which to do so. The Medici metropolis of
Fivizzano, near Verrucola Castle and about 45
minutes from the Mediterranean Sea, is a walled
city known as "Florence of the North"
and has stone houses and apartments in need of
restoration for sale from  30,000 (roughly
$41,000). Restored two-bedroom homes in town
start in the 95,000 range ($132,000) and have
mountain views, modern kitchens and baths and
private courtyards. Outside of town, restored
homes with exposed stone walls, beamed ceilings,
an iron spiral staircase, a balcony and a garden
are for sale from 75,000 ($104,000). This
delightful village has a good selection of
shops, cafes and restaurants, and there is a
train station about 10 minutes down the road.
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Bagone, the "Jewel of Lunigiana," may be one of Lunigiana's
prettiest villages, situated along a river in the shadow of a huge Medieval
hilltop fortress and peppered with pine trees and oak trees. Small, restored
two bedroom stone houses with a terrace, a garden and a wine cellar are for
sale from 98,000 ($137,000).
A restored, utterly charming three bedroom house
with central heating, a balcony, mountain views, a modern bathroom, a modern
kitchen, tile floors and arched doorways is for sale for 149,000
($208,000). Bagone, too, has shops, restaurants, a delightful weekly market and is 30
minutes from the sea.
Pontremoli, founded 2,000 years ago and once one of the most powerful
cities in Lunigiana, has a distinctive Medieval look, with the Castle of
Piagnaro prominent and the town thick with ancient gates, bridges and towers.
Less than an hour's drive from the Mediterranean and with a lower altitude
than some other Lunigiana villages, Pontremoli winters are mild and summers
are not too hot. It also has a few extra services (restaurants, a post office,
a bar, a larger grocery, twice weekly markets) and as a result, property is a
bit more expensive here. Lovely restored 1,100 sq. ft. stone houses with a
portico, a terrace, central heating, a garden, cotto tile floors, dense wooden
doors, a modern kitchen and a modern bath are for sale from 180,000
($252,000). Pontremoli also has a 9-hole golf course.
This is an
interactive map. Click on the arrows in the upper left hand
corner to move the map to the East, West, North or South, and
click on the +/- signs (more than once if necessary) to zoom
in and out.
In addition to housing costs, one can expect to need another $1,500 to
$2,500 a month to cover food, local taxes (TV tax, rubbish collection tax, etc.), transportation, utility bills and
other expenses (this does not include real estate taxes). For example, some villages have a shortage of electricity,
making this commodity more expensive (as a result, large appliances such as
clothes dryers are not always common). There also are limited phone
connections in some areas, raising prices, and where there are connections, it
can cost 200 or more ($280) to have a phone installed. It is common to pay 200
($280) a month for food and 200-300
($280-$420) a month for gas and electricity
(some people buy a
pellet stove for heating). Keep in mind, too, that
Italy levels taxes on properties in several
ways. It is taxed at the local level (ICI
tax), on its increased value each year (IRPEF tax), when it is
sold and usually when it is purchased. Renting is a feasible alternative to buying a house,
but rentals often have extra monthly service fees.
Food is inexpensive,
and meals in restaurants are generally reasonably priced (partly because they
are frequented by locals, not tourists). Typically a meal in a pleasant,
attractive trattoria (an inexpensive restaurant without menus) will run $5 to
$15 and include the house wine (most likely stomped from grapes gathered in
southern Tuscany).
It is hard to find a Lunigiana village without a festival or street
celebration, and they occur nearly all year long. Bagnone hosts a delicious
mushroom and chestnut festival every Sunday in October. The village of Filetto
puts on the splendid Medieval Market Festival every August. The village of
Pietrasanta holds an antique market on the first Sunday of every month.
Pontremoli hosts the well regarded Fiera del Libro, a book fair, every July
and August. As if festivals were not enough, each village has a communal
banquet on its patron saint's feast day.
Italy is famous for its food markets, and each village
in Lunigiana shares in this tradition, some with weekly markets and
some with markets twice a week. Fresh fruits, vegetables and tasty
meats, with flavors found nowhere else, mingle with lots of good
village gossip and town news (and there is no better place to learn to
speak Italian). And what better way to feel at home in Italy
than by cooking up market-fresh produce or making delicious testarolo (a wheat
pasta)!
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This area enjoys a Mediterranean climate, and summers, from April
to October, are long and hot (but rain showers here and there maintain
the greenery). November is often chilly and wet. December through
March can also bring heavy rains but little actually cold weather.
Summer temperatures are generally between 75 degrees and 92 degrees
Farenheight.
Winter temperatures are in the 50s and 60s Farenheight, although
evening temperatures can drop below freezing. Winter really starts in
January with the surrounding mountains clad in snow.
The closest cities, less than an hour
away by car, are bustling Genova (population 900,000), once a gritty seaport
but now an up and coming hotspot for the young and chic, and the Renaissance
city of Pisa (population 90,000), home not only to the Leaning Tower but to
twenty other historic palaces and churches. The three major airports at Pisa,
Genoa and Parma serve the area and all are within easy driving distance on
good motorways. Train connections are frequent and inexpensive.
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When it comes to health care, Italy ranks second on the World
Health Organization's list of countries with quality health services. In
contrast, the U.S. holds the 37th place, despite spending the most money on
health care.
Although most Italian medical facilities are considered adequate for
emergencies, many public hospitals are underfunded and overcrowded. Italy has a national health plan (servizio sanitario nazionale
or SSN) that provides
for medical care and hospital benefits, and U.S. and Canadian citizens who are
legally residing in Italy can apply to join the plan. Residents of Italy that
are covered by the plan receive free medical services, but people not
enrolled in the plan must pay full hospital charges and then claim reimbursement from their insurance
company. In many cases, Americans prefer
to use private hospitals and pay for their own healthcare. Not all Lunigiana
villages have medical centers, but the villages of Aulla (the largest
village), La Spezia, Pontremoli and Fivizzano do. Aulla, Fivizzano, La Spezzia,
Massa, Pontremoli and Saranza also have a hospital. Pharmacists (chemists) are
found in most villages.
To retire in Italy, the best process is to first buy or rent
property and then apply for an extended stay visa at the Italian consulate in
one's hometown (or nearest big city). Aside from a passport, fees and various
forms, documentation of financial resources (original financial statements from
banks, investment/brokerage firms, Social Security, etc.), valid health
insurance coverage and housing are required to prove that one can live in Italy
without being a burden on the government. Bank balances cannot be derived from
current employment or other work activities (retirement in Italy cannot be
financed through work). It is possible to arrange to have Social Security
checks deposited directly into an Italian bank account, but keep in mind that
this can lead to having to pay Italian taxes, which are very high, on top of
U.S. or Canadian taxes. It is often best to keep one's money in a U.S. or Canadian bank account and only access
it as needed. It is also not a good idea to bring expensive items
(autos, boats, etc.) into the country as they will be taxed.
Lunigiana is a paradise for walkers, painters and
photographers, as well as for those who simply enjoy the pleasures of life.
And there is plenty to do. There are literally hundreds of miles of footpaths
and hiking trails in the area ranging from arduous high level walks to easy
paths between villages. Most of the tracks are well maintained and are clearly
marked with distinctive red and white stripes painted on walls and rocks.
Parco dei Cento Laghi ("The Park of One Hundred Lakes") offers opportunities
for seasonal walking, hiking, cycling and skiing (Prato Spilla is the local
ski center).
Less than an hour from most villages, the Mediterranean
shoreline beckons. The Gulf of La Spezia (Gulf of Poets), a collection of
small villages with pastel houses, tasty seafood restaurants and imposing
castles, is a great weekend getaway (the English poets Byron and Shelley often
made their way here). The famous Cinque Terre is an 18 kilometer stretch of
sparkling coastline and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Five fishing
villages are located here, and the northernmost one, Monterosso, has a long
clean beach with private and public sections. Versilia, part of the
fashionable Italian Riviera, has posh, certified blue flag beaches set against
the backdrop of the marble mountains of Massa Carrara and is quite
breathtaking.
Italians are gregarious, generous, friendly and generally very
welcoming of newcomers, and the residents of Lunigiana are no exception. Here
the old-fashioned courtesies are observed and the stranger is made to feel at home.
Retiring in a foreign country, however, takes a bit of courage, an adventurous
spirit and a willingness to overcome obstacles. The biggest obstacle cited by
Lunigiana expats is that no one speaks English, making understanding Italian
mandatory. Many of the villages here are situated on hills, and walking can
take its toll. Some conveniences taken for granted in the U.S. and Canada are
lacking, and people who come to Lunigiana expecting to recreate their lives in
those countries will be disappointed.
But for those who come to live a different life, a more tranquil and simpler life, Lunigiana is an inviting destination. Once in a tug of war
between warring dynasties, today this nearly forgotten land, with its castles
and stone houses, rivers and Medieval villages, enchants nearly all who come.
It is not the place for a typical retirement, but for adventurous souls, daring
dreamers and gentle spirits, the question may be, "Why didn't I retire to Lunigiana
years ago?"
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Lunigiana Homes for Sale
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