Authentic and Unhurried, Picturesque Astoria, Oregon Appeals to Retirees in Search of a Lush Landscape, Mesmerizing Water Views, "Live and Let Live" Attitudes, Plentiful Outdoor Recreation, Cool Weather and a Rich Nautical Tradition

Cost of Living:  Above the National Average

Located on the extreme northwest tip of Oregon, along the mouth of the broad Columbia River and just a few miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, picturesque Astoria, Oregon (population 10,000), is one of the oldest permanent American settlements west of the Rockies.  Meriwether Lewis and William Clark spent the winter of 1806 near here, but it was not until 1810, when America's first millionaire, John Jacob Astor, founded the trading post Fort Astoria that the seeds of Astoria were sewn.   As the Oregon Territory grew, so did the new settlement, becoming a deep-water port with an economy tethered to lumber harvesting and salmon fishing (it was once called ''the cannery capital of the world," as well as a "bustling, booming, hell-raising town," full of scoundrels and cads).   These days the mills and canneries are gone, but Astoria has held onto its down to earth working class values, and more retirees are discovering its striking backdrop, gorgeous Victorian homes, maritime milieu, revitalized 1920s downtown, average crime rate and relatively mild climate (for this far north).   Of today's population, 41% is age 45 or better.

The cost of living is 5% above the national average, and the median home price is roughly $200,000, down 10% in the last year but still above the national median.    Astoria's heyday came in the 19th-century and early-20th century, when the town was "fish rich" from a never ending flow of salmon, and its citizens displayed their wealth by building large, stately homes on the wooded hillsides above the river.   Nearly 300 of these Victorian structures still stand today, many now beautiful B&Bs that cater to out-of-towners.   Cape Cod bungalows, Craftsman, bi-levels, ranch-style, cottages and traditional home styles dot the community as well, and many have large yards that overflow with fuchsias, ferns and hydrangeas.   Manufactured homes on private land are available, too, and can be found for less than $100,000.  Generally, town homes and apartments are not in great supply. Unfortunately, Oregon is not a tax-friendly state (and yet a lot of people choose to live here).  The property tax rate is approximately $19 per $1,000 of a house's maximum assessed value or fair market value, which ever is lower (maximum assessed value is the 1995 value reduced by 10%, plus any changes that were made to the property, increased by 3% each year after 1997).  The annual tax on a $200,000 home is approximately $2,260.   Oregon does not have a homestead exemption, but homeowners 62 or better may delay paying property taxes if their annual total household income is less than $36,500.  Social Security is not taxed, but other retirement income is taxed.  A 9% credit is available for private pension retirement income.  Oregon has no sales tax, personal income tax rates range from 5% to 11%. Not overly commercialized and usually not crowded (except in summer), Astoria is authentic and sturdy, and although its economy now depends primarily on tourism, it is not really a resort town (and it is still an active commercial seaport, with 5,000 boats and ships passing by town along the Columbia each year).  The revitalized downtown is compact and quaint, bordered by the steep hills and the river, and residents, many from families that have lived here for generations, are generally working class (plenty of loggers and fishermen) with a "live and let live" attitude.    A few nationally-recognized artists make their home here, and several cruise lines offload passengers who come to enjoy the breathtaking natural beauty and historic waterfront, which boasts seafod restaurants, the wonderful Columbia River Maritime Museum, the restored 1913 Riverfront Trolley and the Astoria Riverwalk.      The air is fresh; the politics lean slightly to the left, and life is quiet and low key, reminiscent of a less complicated time.

 This is an interactive map.  Click on the arrows in the upper left hand corner to move the map to the East, West, North or South, and click on the +/- signs (more than once if necessary) to zoom in and out.

Cultural amenities are not outstanding, but the Astor Street Opry Company provides a variety of workshops and productions, including the annual Shanghaied in Astoria, every year.  The Astoria Visual Art Association hosts art exhibits, and the Clatsop County Historical Society manages three local museums.  The Astoria Festival of Music features operatic, symphonic and chamber music performances each summer.  The beautiful Liberty Theater, a restored 1925 vaudeville house, has a state-of-the-art performing arts complex.  When it comes to festivals, local Finns, Icelanders, Danes, Norwegians and Swedes gather to celebrate their heritage during the the Scandinavian Midsummer Festival each June.    The Lewis and Clark Public Golf Course and the lush Astoria Golf and Country Club (private equity), also known as the "St. Andrews of the Pacific," offer duffers and low-handicappers an opportunity to get out on the links.  And Astoria's wonderful setting has been a Hollywood sound stage more than once.  The movies Into the Wild, Free Willy and The Black Stallion were all filmed here (and Clark, "Frankly, my dear, I don't give a damn," Gable got his start in Astoria).

Outside of town, opportunities for fishing, hiking, birding, boating, beach combing, camping and cross country skiing are abundant   The Oregon coast, with its spectacular scenery, is a short drive to the west, and Washington State is quickly accessible via the massive Astoria-Megler Bridge, the longest continuous truss bridge in North America (completion of the bridge in 1966 allowed travelers to easily drive the entire western U.S. coastline from Canada to Mexico).   The Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, is close by and celebrates the spot where members of the Lewis and Clark expedition stayed during the winter of 1806. It also has a replica of John Jacob Astor's original fort.  Nearby Fort Stevens State Park is popular with RVers and campers.

The Astoria Public Library (open Tuesday through Saturday) dates from 1892 but is very modern and has downloadable books (and old fashioned paper books, some with large print), magazines, newspapers and public computers with wifi Internet access. 

Shopping mainly consists of specialty shops (including many Scandinavian establishments with crafts, collectibles, books and the like) and a farmers' market, called the Astoria Sunday Market, which takes place every weekend from May through October and stretches across four blocks.   There is a Safeway (grocery) with a Starbucks, but generally large box stores (Costco, Wal-Mart) are not found in town (but are within a 30 to 60 minute drive).

The Sunset Empire Transportation District (SETD) provides local bus service for Astoria and neighboring Warrenton ($1 to ride).  Stops include the Safeway and the hospital (and there is a connecting bus to Portland).  A paratransit service is also available, and the Northwest Ride Center provides transportation or gas reimbursement for eligible Oregon Health Plan (OHP) Plus and Medicaid clients traveling to covered medical services.  The Riverfront Trolley is a fun way to tour the riverfront.

Columbia Memorial Hospital is small, with just 25 beds, but it is a full service, critical access, Level IV trauma center and recently opened a 38,000 square foot facility with a new urgent care department, a women's health center, a new MRI unit, a new cardiac rehabilitation unit and a new emergency medicine center.   It is accredited by the Joint Commission and meets or exceeds expectations in most areas (but falls short in pulmonary care).   Medicare and Medicaid patients are accepted.  Three more hospitals are within 25 miles.   For military retirees, Portland, Oregon (65 miles) and Vancouver, Washington (65 miles) both have a VA hospital.

The Astoria Senior Center is the place to go for services and activities for the more mature crowd (55+), and it currently has 400 members.    Social events include crafts, pool playing, shuffleboard, bingo, pot luck dinners, monthly birthday parties, trips, line dancing and more.   The Astoria Parks and Recreation Department also has classes and activities for people age 55 or better.

The climate is on the cool side without a lot of temperature fluctuations (50s and 60s in the summer and 30s and 40s in the winter).   Astoria sits in a temperate rain forest, so it receives a lot of rain, from 2 to 3 inches per month in the summer and up to 12 inches per month in the winter (but not much snow).  It is also humid, often overcast (the sun only shines 127 days of the year), often foggy and occasionally windy.  Water quality and air quality levels are above the national averages.

There are, of course, drawbacks to retirement in Astoria.   It is remote, and it is the kind of community that rolls up the sidewalks at 10 p.m. (which not everyone considers a drawback).    The earthquake risk is 17% above the national average.   Winters are kind of gloomy.  Shopping is limited.  Tourists clog streets, shops and restaurants in the summer.

The retirees that live here, though, seem to cherish their seaside town, with its easygoing ways, rich nautical culture and stunning natural beauty.   The old-time hell raisers, scoundrels and cads may have gone, but the retirees have come and decided to stay.

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